Sonntag, 18. Mai 2014

Ein Gespräch mit Michael Jondral

Die Krawatten-Manufaktur Viola Milano hat nicht nur eine fabelhafte Website, sondern auch einen lesenswerten Blog, The Journal genannt. Dafür führte Tom Nathaniel von Viola Milano kürzlich ein Gespräch mit Michael Jondral. Wir drucken dieses Interview hier noch einmal im Original ab. Viel Vergnügen!

Who are you?

I am Michael Jondral and I have been working in the menswear business since 1984. Until 2006 I was a managing partner of Heinrich’s, which during that time was one of the leading retailers in terms of formal menswear in Germany. In 2007, I founded my own business: Michael Jondral, focusing on sartorial brands from the Gulf of Naples.

What is your earliest memory related to menswear and style?
At the age of six years when I wore blue flannel bermuda shorts, white knee socks and blue sandals.

How did you start your career in menswear and how did you first enter into the world of tailoring and garments especially from Naples?
As I mentioned before I started in 1984 at Heinrich’s. After my first trip to the headquarters of Kiton and a meeting with the owner Ciro Paone, I became very inspired by the craftsmanship and the quality Moreover, I internalised his maxim and it became my guiding phrase: ‘Qualita, Qualita, Qualita!’.

How would you describe your own style?
Contemporary tailoring style!
If you had to name one person that has had the most influence on your style, who would that be?
After the cooperation with Kiton and Ciro Paone, my first meeting with the Attolini family was the event with the greatest impact on me. Starting from that moment, a friendship developed (and I am very careful with this phrase) with Massimiliano Attolini, and from that moment I was more and more influenced and got a higher awareness for processing quality. In particular the art of the construction balance of a jacket/suit. Thank you Massimiliano!!!

How do you evaluate the German market in terms of sartorial menswear? 
Are there any trends?
Personally, I see Germany as a very tough market in terms of sartorial quality. People often much easier invest a lot of money in cars than in their wardrobe, and if they do they invest more in strong status brands, rather than in their personal taste and a product of high quality. Therefore, we always try to improve this behaviour.

Your store had been seen as a "sartorial heaven" for the German menswear field! What makes Michael Jondral unique?

I do not know if we are unique. But we strive after – always with superior modesty – conveying the cultural asset that is ‘La Vera Sartoria Napoletana’ to our customers. And we are very happy when we reach that goal.

Can you mention any essentials in your wardrobe for spring/summer 2014?

Unfortunately there is too much in the wardrobe, a result of my position as a passionate retail entrepreneur. But an essential for the summer is a double-breasted suit in brown, as a fabric you should use Irish linen. An English drill sand-coloured cotton suit and a blue jacket in a basket weave, preferably by Fox. All items from Cesare Attolini. Recently, I got made a nearly plain white linen suit from Orazio Luciano for the special summer days. This company is my personal reference of an aspiring brand. Moreover, white linen shirts by Finamore and blue knitted and silk garza ties by Viola Milano. Finally, dark brown velour leather loafers by Saint Crispin’s (the best shoes worldwide!!!).

What was it about Viola Milano that initially caught your attention?
The wonderful bracelets, the selected taste of ties and the fresh online presence aroused me. In addition, obviously by Pino Luciano, kind of a brand ambassador of Viola with his daily outfits wearing the bracelets all over his arms.

Brand Control:

Watch: Rolex "Pepsi" GMT from 1991 and a Rolex Date steel/white gold with croco strap from the 70th
Shoes: Saint Crispin´s.

Suit / Jacket: Cesare Attolini
Shirt: Finamore
Ties: Viola Milano, Tie Your Tie, Finamore, Dolcepunta, Cesare Attolini - I love all the ties.

Perfume: Acqua di Genova and Carthusia Mediterraneo for the hot summer
Bags: Felisi.

Accescoires: Buttonhole chain in sterling from my friends of The Armoury, Leather strap for my knife (always in my pocket) as a gift from my sister in law and a pommelato bracelet as a gift from my beloved wife


My favourites:

Most important item: a blue knitted tie and a white linen pochette
Shops: Frasi in Florenz.

Restaurant: Trattoria da Ciocciotto Napoli and Trattoria Sostanza Firenze.

Favourite Cities: Napoli, Venezia and Firenze
Holiday choice: Capri to relax, Tokyo as the next city trip
Car: i´m not a big enthusiast of cars
Style Icon: my prematurely deceased friend Leo Grasso.

Music: Jazz with my favorite Miles Davis.

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