Montag, 25. Januar 2016

After Pitti is before Milano..

50% of Pitti Uomo are done for 2016 but the buying season is about to happen the upcoming weeks! Milano, Munich and in-house appointments have to be made and final decisions will be done.

But what had been Michaels favorites during Pitti Immagine 89?

To sum up manufactories and brands that present during Pitti their collections we are going to start at the bottom: Carmina Shoemaker. The lovely company from Mallorca which Michael Jondral started last autumn to sell in his shop. 
*irony on* But there is one major problem *irony off* – Carmina's fantastic reputation is growing and growing and also the number of fans and wearer. Therefore, our big reorder is coming quite late in May. Before that we are waiting for some great slip ons that will be great to combine with a summer business outfit. And stay ahead for fall/winter we will have some exotic pieces in our shop...

From the shoes to the trousers where Michael is – since a couple of seasons – amazed by the collection of the family-run business Rota. An amazing fit and great details are combined with lovely fabrics. For next autumn/winter the Theaterstraße 13 will show on- and offline some sartorial flannels, checks and winter cottons. For the casual part it will be a bit rougher with washed old dyed cottons and chinos. Organic growing and reliability are two major keys – beside the product – by Rota.

To add to your Rota trouser and Carmina shoes you should wear (if you're not wearing a shirt) some knitwear of Fedeli. As well a family-run business with a collection that has a great development. To point out some highlights: hand knitted garments, 4-ply turtlenecks, cashmere donegal, very fine and light merino wool as a sartorial companion and finally some very comfortable sneakers! A real statement in terms of luxury casual style!

Finally, add a jacket of our friends from Napoli: Orazio Luciano. Father Orazio and son Pino show from season to season contemporary tailoring at its best and Michael adds his own nuance to his collection. This time he selected some loden fabrics (in own research) from Austria, as well as Harris Tweed from the Shetland islands with the typical neapolitan way of tailoring. British fabrics X soft Neapolitan tailoring. Stay tuned for some special next autumn!

You heard also from Michael's lunch with the other 10 Most Rakish Men and the Symposium where our friend Benjamin Simonnot invited Michael while he spoke about his handkerchief and pocket square business? Read more the upcoming days...

Michael at the Symposium with a good friend and colleague Daniel!

Sonntag, 10. Januar 2016

Pitti 89, Rakish Lunch and Business Cards!

Herre we go. The day after tomorrow Pitti Uomo 89 open the doors for buyers, shop owners, bloggers and sartorial fans who want to see the latest collections from all over the world. Small factories, manufacturers, big companies and new brands will show what they developed the last months.
As always in January we are going to see the new fall/winter collection (for 2016/17). 

What will be a new trend, what are the most interesting brands, fabrics and models?

Most of the buyers know what they want and need (do they need anything!?) – they have a structure to follow from day to day. Some attend the entire four days from Tuesday to Friday but most of them just stay the core days: Tuesday and Wednesday

Michael Jondral already has some very concrete plans of what he will buy from Finamore 1925, Orazio Luciano, Simonnot-Godard, Sealup, Albert Thurston, Carmina and all the others that attend to the fair. Moreover, its more for a first information and an update if there is anything that is entirely new. Finally, the order will be placed in the brands showroom in Milano.

Therefore, Michael decided – after being mentioned as one of The Most Rakish Men from the Rake Japan – to invite all other nine Most Rakish Men to a get-together. Rakish Lunch. Having lunch in a very nice atmosphere of gentlemen from all over the world. Mark Cho, Ethan Newton, Andreas Weinås, Simon Crompton and more will come and talk and discuss about the latest trends, sartorial problems and more. We will keep you updated with more information after the lunch – stay tuned! 

As this is not a contest or meeting of rivals we do not think that the situation will be like in the video below. Where Christian Bale (as Patrick Bateman) is showing his latest business card and all his colleagues show off with their own. Small details decide what and who you are...

Mittwoch, 6. Januar 2016

Mark Cho – a great personality living and working anywhere in the world!

Mark Cho, a gentleman you can write a lot about. 

Hong Kong, London, Hong Kong, New York, London, Florence, Milan, Naples, Hong Kong, London, New York, somewhere in Asia, somewhere in Europe...

This great personality is traveling the world. Day per Day. And Michael has a long and well established contact to him: a couple of years ago he met Mark Cho and Ethan Newton (former partner) in Florence during a nice lunch at the Trattoria Sostanza – the place where Michael invites the 10 Most Rakish Men this January during Pitti (next week).

Mark Cho founded – only a couple of years after Michael Jondral – his first store in Hong Kong with Alan See. A fact to underline: They have an amazing team of young and enthusiastic men that are all totally in love with the sartorial life – well done Mark and Alan. In addition; they are working with the leading tailors, manufacturers and companies from all over the world. There are similarities to Michael's shop like Saint Crispin's, Orazio Luciano, Simonnot-Godard and many more.

Mark Cho (in the middle), Alan See (right) and Jeremy Kirkland (to the left) during last Pitti 88 in Florence
Moreover, after a deeper contact Michael started to sell in his shop some items that had been created by team around Mark Cho and Alan See: The Armoury's famous lapel chain and also a great denim that had been created by the Hong Kong based team.

What else to say about Mark?

Mr. Cho is never loud in his way of wearing a suit or combination but he is wearing every single piece of cloth with passion and love for the detail – brilliant. Enjoy now his answers he gave to The Rake Japan!

Profile of the person and brief introduction of their work and jobs:

Mark Cho, 32. born and raised in London, went to Brown University in the USA. Initially worked in womenswear before spending 4 years in real estate doing analysis and asset management in the UK and China. I had a passion for menswear since high school and became one of the major shareholders of Drake’s and the co-founder of The Armoury in 2010.
For Drake’s, I am involved only in major tasks such as financing, new premises, new stores, etc. For The Armoury, I am involved at all levels, from shop design to sales to purchasing to administration.

Your point of view in dressing:

Dressing is a language. For myself, I like the idea that my clothing is my vocabulary and I have choice in the way I use it. The way you physically present yourself is just another way you communicate with the world. I think once you reach a certain point of experience, dressing is no longer about looking good or not, it’s about communicating yourself accurately and as you wish. It should come naturally.
All the people whose style I really respect look at ease and natural in their clothing. I believe this is because since their clothing is never a costume to hide themselves, they will always appear at ease and natural in it.
I love many styles and I don’t think it’s possible to objectively consider one style better than another. Tailoring has been such an obsession for me because it is such a rich subject, it has so many layers and so much nuance. With The Armoury, I try to present a range of different styles, from Florentine to Neapolitan to Milanese to American and so on. It is fascinating to see how customers explore what we offer.
For bespoke, personally, I wear bespoke Liverano (Florentine) or Tailor CAID (American) the most often. I feel very comfortable in them. Their work is subtle, with the details not being immediately obvious, and I like the attitude that represents.
I am also very happy with my Ring Jacket garments, I wear them as much as my bespoke garments. The Armoury team and I spent a long time working on creating exclusive models with Ring Jacket that really represent our shop’s style so I am always very proud to wear them.

Your favorite tailor/items:

For Liverano
1 blue single button peak lapel wool three piece suit which was adapted from his tuxedo style, a very flattering style but very easy to wear as well
2 olive heavyweight cotton two piece suit, more casual and fun but can still be dressy with the right accessories
3 brown prince of wales with blue overcheck cashmere sport jacket, can be worn with jeans or trousers

For Tailor CAID
1 navy single button mohair peak lapel suit in his 30’s cut not his Ivy Style cut. It is my suit for serious or special occasions , I think of it as one level less formal than a tuxedo.
2 grey herringbone wool tweed three piece, it is based on a vintage Brooks Brothers three piece that Yamamoto-san had in his shop.  I often separate the pieces and wear the jacket by itself as a sport jacket.

Your personal rules on style:

I learned from Liverano to wear navy socks for almost every occasion.
I prefer looser over tighter fitting clothing, I think it’s more important to be comfortable.
Unless it’s a very casual suit, I think it’s always better to wear a tie.
Never insist on perfect fit or try for perfect coordination.
When choosing colours, stick with either mostly warm or mostly cool colours for the majority of what you are wearing and then add the opposite as an accent. e.g. brown suit with navy tie or navy suit with honey coloured tie.

Who do you get inspired by any influences?

I’m lucky enough to work with some very stylish and interesting people. I think naturally when people like each other and work closely together, they will subconsciously imitate each other a little and they becomes an influence on each other.
The people who I am inspired by always have very strong control over their style. Antonio Liverano and Takahiro Osaki have a style that has is always elegant but also as a little bit of unpredictability to it, making it much more interesting. Hirofumi Kurino is really able to wear a wide variety of styles and influences and always look comfortable, I think this is a sign of experience. Yasuto Kamoshita has an incredible sense for colour and materials. Yuhei Yamamoto has incredible discipline with his style, it’s always very coherent.

Any collections? ie watches, shoes, bespoke items? 

I love watches. In particular, I like vintage and new Grand Seiko. I generally prefer watches from the 30’s to the 60’s because of their small size but sometimes I will buy more modern pieces, also. One of my favourite styles of watch is the “two register” chronograph, which is not so common anymore.

Sonntag, 3. Januar 2016

Die Kälte kommt und mit ihr der SpItSa

Ende November gab es einmal kurz das erste winterliche "Hallo" der kalten Jahreszeit. Eisige Temperaturen um die null Grad und Schnee, ob bei uns in Hannover oder im Süden Deutschlands.
Wir und Sie hätten davon ausgehen können, dass der lange Sommer nun vorbei wäre und wir uns auf einen langen und kalten Winter einstellen müssten. Aber es kam natürlich alles wieder ganz anders. Nach den zwei Tagen traumhaft schöner Winterlandschaft wurde es wärmer und wärmer und wärmer...Temperaturen mehr um die 15 Grad waren angesagt.
Winterjacken, Kaschmir und aufgeraute Wollqualitäten konnten wieder getrost im Schrank verstaut werden. Der Glühwein wurde mit der Sommerdaune genossen und die Adventssonntage glichen mehr und mehr lauen Sommertagen...Nun ja, ganz so extrem war es vielleicht nicht, aber es ging in diese Richtung!

Und jetzt? Heute? Wir schreiben das Jahr 2016, frohes Neues an Sie alle! Bleiben Sie gesund und froh!

Noch Ende 2015 hat sich das Wetter tatsächlich verändert, es wurde kalt, richtig kalt! Die Temperaturen wurden einstellig und an diesem Wochenende rutschten diese sogar in den Minusbereich. Schnee in Hannover, eisiger Wind. Der Wunsch nach warmer Kleidung.
Da können wir Sie beruhigen. Das Ende der Herbst-/Wintersaison im Handel kommt "quasi" zeitgleich mit dem realen Beginn des Winters. Übersetzt bedeutet das:
Der Sale kommt für Sie genau zur richtigen Zeit.


Unser "Special Items Sale" bedeutet 30%-50% auf ausgewählte Artikel der aktuellen Saison. 

Ob Cesare Attolini, Finamore 1925, Felisi oder Viola Milano – es sind viele "special items" dabei!
Sie sind auf der Suche nach einem besonderen Sakko? Schauen Sie sich genau die Abraham Moon Stoffe an, die von Orazio Luciano in reiner Handarbeit verarbeitet wurden. Hierbei treffen wahnsinnige Qualitäten aus England die neapolitanische Schneiderei. Das Ergebnis kann sich mehr als sehen lassen!

Sei es von Moorer ein dicker Parka welcher mit einem Tech-Flannel ausgestattet ist! Eine traumhafte Qualität die Funktionalität mit höchstem Tragekomfort verbindet, damit werden Sie keine Probleme mit Minusgraden und Wind haben – das garantieren wir Ihnen!

Sie wollen noch eine Stufe extremer gehen und sagen, dass Sie das Maximum an Wärme benötigen? Gerne, dann doch bitte mit unserem Familienbetrieb von Enzo Leather Jewels! Hier bekommen Sie handgefertigtes Leder! Ob als zweireihiger Peacoat oder als traumhafter Mantel beide aus naturgewachsenem Lammfell! Es geht kaum wärmender!