Freitag, 25. Dezember 2015

Most Rakish Men...

Gentlemen...It's always great to see men with timeless elegance living and managing their life and business.

The Rake from Japan in person of Yuko Fujita selected for the November issue the "Most Rakish Men" from around the world. And yes, as you might have already noticed Michael Jondral is one of the 10 Most Rakish Men – a great honor to be part of this circle with other personalities like: 

Mark Cho (Hong Kong based, Co-Founder of The Armoury)

Ethan Newton (Tokyo based, Brycelands director and famous blogger)

Simon Crompton (London based, Journalist and Permanent Style founder)

Andreas Weinås (Stockholm based, Manolo Sweden Executive Editor)

And many more that we will mention in the following weeks!

Thank you Yuko Fujita and also Mark Cho for the contact!

Michael is in touch with all of them. Meetings during Pitti in Florence are normal and also longer conversations on a weekly basis are as usual as the daily contact to his own clients in the shop in Theaterstr. 13, Hanover!

Cesare Attolini, Saint Crispin's, Orazio Luciano and Simonnot-Godard are only a few connectors in terms of companies that all of the Rakish Men are working with in their shops, magazines and that are part of their sartorial life!

We always talk about the here and now but why not ask the "Most Rakish Men" how they became what they are today!? 
Why are these personalities interested in classical style? Why did they choose their job and when did they get measured for their first suit?
Finally, of course, who influenced them as a person or character in their personal fashion?

But also what are their favorites sartorias in the world today and how does their own country look in terms of classical fashion?

So, we would like to start with Andreas Weinås, who is based even more in the North than Michael Jondral: Stockholm (Sweden). He is in his late twenties and a fantastic guy, wearing with passion Cesare Attolini, Sartoria CorCos and Orazio Luciano. Please enjoy 10 questions and especially Andreas' answers.

 Andreas Weinås – The Rake Japan

When and where were you born? I’d like to know your title

I was born in Sweden, 1986. I´m the Editor in Chief of the Menswear site and the Watch Editor of King Magazine in Sweden. 

Could you tell me the details of your career and job?
I’d like to know the reason why you chose the job.

In my job I write, edit and publish the everyday content for our site Manolo that focus on sartorial menswear, craftsmanship and quality. Since I split my time between Manolo and King Magazine I get to work with both of my greatest passions which are classic menswear and watches. In King Magazine I´m responsible for all watch related content in the magazine.

From when have you been interested in classical style?

My interest in classic style developed quite late in my early twenties. I got fed up on the constant changes in trends with every season and found that quality, fit och craftsmanship is much more sustainable, both for the environment and your personal style.

Could you tell me about the feature of fashion style in your country, the feature of classic fashion and the feature of your classic style of your own.

The Swedish fashion scene is quite prominent with strong brands like Acne, Our Legacy and of course H&M. I think Swedes in general have a great style and the majority of at least younger people are quite fashionable. When it comes to classic style It´s unfortunately way worse since the formality in the work place such as offices has decreased a lot over recent years. Today very few wear suits or even a tie at work. It´s the younger generation that now got more and more interested in sartorial menswear with suits, unconstructed jackets and ties like grenadine, shantung or wool that is less formal.

Could you tell me your favorite sartoria?

I think my favourite tailor is Kotaro Miyahira from Sartoria CorCos i Florence. He combines the precision of Japanese tailoring with the beautiful cut of the florentine style. And he is a humble person with great personality and impeccable style. 
For Made to Measure suits I think Cesare Attolini and Orazio Luciano is the best you can get with a quality and fit very close to bespoke tailoring.

When and who did you order your first suits for?

My first Bespoke suit I ordered from Zaremba Bespoke which is a tailor in Warsaw. Maciej who is the owner is a great friend now and has been traveling a lot to Sweden for trunk shows recently. 

Could you tell me the reason why you’re into bespoke suits?

There are several reasons. First its the is the fit which is incredible and tend to be more timeless than a RTW garment. Second is the incredible amount of craftsmanship and quality that goes in to a bespoke suit that I find so intriguing. Third and last is the experience of having something created just for you. Not just the choices of fabric and details but also the entire cut. To me that is the essence of personal style.

Could you tell me the person who has influenced to your fashion?

I think two of the biggest influences in recent years are Mark Cho and Alan See from The Armoury in Hong Kong. They both have impeccable style and combines classic tailoring with personal details which I find very inspiring. 

Could you tell me about the brand we shoot and which part is the most favorite of it and which situation are you tend to use it?

The Glencheck jacket is from Zaremba Bespoke and something I wear from spring to early fall. It goes very well with both grey, and cream colour trousers and light blue shirts. The Flannel trousers are a collaboration piece I designed together with a menswear store in Sweden with a single pleat and slightly higher rise. The brown tie is bespoke from Drake´s and one of my favourite ones. The shoes are another special project with the shoemaker Enzo Bonafé from Bologna and the store Skoaktiebolaget in Stockholm.

Could you tell me the details what you’re particular about your fashion style?

I focus very much on the colour palette of Blues, browns, greys and whites. I can appreciate bold colours on others but prefer these subtle ones myself together with burnt orange, dark green or burgundy. My wardrobe is very one sided in that matter. I have 95% white, blue and white/blue shirts. 
In shoes I love pretty much every shade of brown available. I love loafers in the summer and oxfords and brogues the rest of the time.

Do you have anything that you collect?
And how many is it in the collection?

My other big passion is watches which I have been collecting for about 10 years now. I have bought and sold a lot during the years but now I have focused on a few special ones. I focus mainly on vintage watches but I have a few modern pieces as well. My favourite watch is probably the Patek Philippe Nautilus that to me is the perfect everyday watch. You can wear it to the beach on vacation or with a suit to the office and everything between. 

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